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Wax for Slow Dirty Snow

ARL67

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We are near the end of our season up here north of Toronto, but this week is colder. So no corn snow, just a light dusting of fresh over whatever little is underneath. You can see the snow has micro dust/dirt in it and the snow is slow / grabby.

I usually just use Purl Purple all-purpose wax but that's not the ticket for this week's conditions. I also have bars of the of Purl black Graphite and Yellow warm-temp, though have never used them. Any advice on a suitable wax application for such snow ? Or should I run to a ski shop and buy something else ?
 

SlideWright

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We are near the end of our season up here north of Toronto, but this week is colder. So no corn snow, just a light dusting of fresh over whatever little is underneath. You can see the snow has micro dust/dirt in it and the snow is slow / grabby.

I usually just use Purl Purple all-purpose wax but that's not the ticket for this week's conditions. I also have bars of the of Purl black Graphite and Yellow warm-temp, though have never used them. Any advice on a suitable wax application for such snow ? Or should I run to a ski shop and buy something else ?
Every year Purl makes a Spring Stinger Wax Puck- Purl Limited Batch for what your are experiencing if the snow was warmer & transforming.
(Edited form accuracy.)


Spring_Stinger_Single_1024x1024@2x.jpg
 
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James

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Swix MB77 base prep wax is good, then put whatever wax over it for the conditions. Helps repel the gunk.
If there’s going to be new snow, maybe go one level colder on the top wax, esp if said snow is dryish.
 
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ARL67

ARL67

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SlideWright

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Perfect :golfclap: ! I have full bars of each -> this afternoon's activity :thumb:
Like James said, if it's colder you might not use the yellow unless it warms up and the snow transforms.

Per Purl Stinger bee link:
Recommended temp range: 28° F to 35° F and warmer

Tip: The graphite is used to repel contaminants found in spring slush snow.

(NOTE: Swix, Purl and others use air temps for their waxes, while Maplus, Toko & others use snow temp. I suggest waxing for the cold temp of the night before.)

Yesterday in Telluride (& San Juans in general) we get a temperature swing of 30° per day with humidity and the sun intensity can vary considerably by aspect and then there's 3,500 ft in elevation. The temps started mid teens & the Maplus Purple/Red LP2 (low fluoro) blend ran great on all aspects and snow types. The dirty corn was fast, surfy and fun while the colder, day old powder was excellent, too. After 30k & 26 miles, the bases look fine and do not need waxing for at least one more (of 3 or 4) outings.

Don't forget about a more aggressive base structure, too.
 
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jt10000

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We are near the end of our season up here north of Toronto, but this week is colder. So no corn snow, just a light dusting of fresh over whatever little is underneath. You can see the snow has micro dust/dirt in it and the snow is slow / grabby.

I usually just use Purl Purple all-purpose wax but that's not the ticket for this week's conditions. I also have bars of the of Purl black Graphite and Yellow warm-temp, though have never used them. Any advice on a suitable wax application for such snow ? Or should I run to a ski shop and buy something else ?
A hard graphite/black wax or a graphite/black wax mixed with something hard (like a Swix 6) as the underlayer. Then wax of the day on top. Or maybe (I have not done this myself) just drip a little graphite into wax of the day.

Also, in dirty snow wax a little colder than you think. Or at least, never use a super-soft wax.
 

trailtrimmer

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You can get a big bar of wintersteiger universal moly wax for $17 on ebay. Use straight or mix with the temp wax of your choice, it works great for the $$$.
 

James

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The slowest snow besides warm glue snow I’ve experienced was last Monday. Coldish new snow, base under completely frozen after warm snow on Sunday.

This new powder snow must have been highly aggressive and maybe there was static? Wish I had had the moly or graphite plus new snow mid temp wax. Maybe Dominator.
You had to completely change your line from what the usual experience of 4-5 inches of cold powder tells you, to keep speed.
 

Bill Talbot

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The slowest snow besides warm glue snow I’ve experienced was last Monday. Coldish new snow, base under completely frozen after warm snow on Sunday.

This new powder snow must have been highly aggressive and maybe there was static? Wish I had had the moly or graphite plus new snow mid temp wax. Maybe Dominator.
You had to completely change your line from what the usual experience of 4-5 inches of cold powder tells you, to keep speed.
Velcro Snow... ditch the skis and go for a bike ride!
 

SlideWright

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The slowest snow besides warm glue snow I’ve experienced was last Monday. Coldish new snow, base under completely frozen after warm snow on Sunday.

This new powder snow must have been highly aggressive and maybe there was static? Wish I had had the moly or graphite plus new snow mid temp wax. Maybe Dominator.
You had to completely change your line from what the usual experience of 4-5 inches of cold powder tells you, to keep speed.
..or sandpaper snow. Static may be part of the mix but the friction seems best resisted with a smoother bottom. Like if you applied a uber hard green or hard blue and didn't brush other than to expose minimal structure.
 
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ARL67

ARL67

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I just crayoned some Purl Green, then lightly hot dripped Purl Graphite, then ironed it out. I finished with the blue shop-towel method of soaking up the excess. Should I do a quick brush once its cooled or leave it ? I have a copper and a nylon brush if needed.
 

SlideWright

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I just crayoned some Purl Green, then lightly hot dripped Purl Graphite, then ironed it out. I finished with the blue shop-towel method of soaking up the excess. Should I do a quick brush once its cooled or leave it ? I have a copper and a nylon brush if needed.
Well, in the interest of taking on the roll as 'crash test dummy' and taking one for the team, you could do nothing more, and see how it works. Then brush it out and see what the difference is afterwards. Otherwise, I'd brush out.
 

trailtrimmer

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I just crayoned some Purl Green, then lightly hot dripped Purl Graphite, then ironed it out. I finished with the blue shop-towel method of soaking up the excess. Should I do a quick brush once its cooled or leave it ? I have a copper and a nylon brush if needed.
Less is more, definitely brush as structure is critical for breaking the vacuum water droplets create. Wax just fills the structure.
 

snwbrdr

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Some say Molybdenum is better than Graphite, as Moly is a little faster...but both do the job fine.

One can use the Purl Graphite as the top wax... others buy base prep wax with the stuff in it, and then put your usual wax over it.

I personally use Toko Base Freshener w/ Moly as my base prep/storage wax, so I don't fear as much old snow and man-made snow and the dirtier spring conditions

On Purl's website:

They recommend to blend it with the yellow warm wax for spring conditions.

Then they also say, to crayon on the graphite wax for best distribution. Then I assume you drip on the yellow wax and iron it in, so it would mix that way into the base.
 
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