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Tuning the new Kendo 88

Levy1

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I have read where the factory tune on the new Kendo 88 is ready to go.. I have always tuned any new ski 1 in 3 and I'm wondering if I can take it straight to the slopes.
 
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Levy1

Levy1

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Have you checked it by eye and guide?

EDIT: double post oops.
No, but I am ready to learn. Used to tune 20 years ago. What's the factory tune? What are your thoughts on 1 and 3 for the east?
 

cantunamunch

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1/3 Works everywhere except just after rainstorms - or at Wildcat when VR simply don't make any snow.

If you still have your hand tools, you can check flatness, base bevel (straight edge) and side bevel (magic marker test)
 
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Levy1

Levy1

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Great, I have my tools and now that you've reminded me I know how to do that. Thanks for the help.
 

KingGrump

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I always tune my skis before skiing them. I didn't do that was for 3 pairs of Mamie's new skis. They were "premium" skis. The finish was beautiful. Unfortunately, they didn't ski that way. Caught hell for it.

Now, every new pair gets a full hand tune. A base grind, if necessary.

FWIW, the last 5 pairs (last 2 years) of new Volkl Kendo/Kenja/Mantra/Secret that came across my bench were pretty much spot on. A little TLC and they were good to go.
 

anders_nor

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its kinda funny since I'm fairly close with my rep, but honesty keeps everyone on their A game.

one pair of deacon 84's was so bad it severly affected ski life to get them flat, others has been so good you dont need to do anything but wax and hit slopes.

sadly I feel this is across brands
 

Henry

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Do any of the brands use the edge tuning machines that put different edge angles on different parts of the ski (on purpose)? Properly tuned edges on those skis would look like a terrible job if one didn't know what they had.

I've seen too many cupped new skis. I second Wilhemson's motion--check and have a shop flatten them if necessary. I didn't even like the structure on my new Stöckli skis, flat but a structure so coarse that the structure let light show under the true bar. And they skied squirley. They were much better for me after a tune.
 

KingGrump

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Do any of the brands use the edge tuning machines that put different edge angles on different parts of the ski (on purpose)?

Had 5 pairs of new in wrapper premium skis the past 2 season that had variable edge angle. Every 3 to 6 inches. :nono:

Looked beautiful to the naked eye. Skied like s***.

ETA: One pair even had structure on the base edge. Glad we caught it during pre-season prep.
 
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Andy Mink

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A deep structure can really screw up a good ski. I had a test ski one time that I thought was railed horribly. Turned out the structure was so deep that it would stick to the snow any time the ski was slid sideways. Like stopping. That was exciting! Also, any transition between turns was pretty miserable.

EDIT: A deep structure IN THE WRONG CONDITIONS can really screw up a good ski.
 
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Atomicman

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I always ski on my skis first before I touch the base edge. If it ain't broke why fix it! Most often I will leave the base alone and put a 3 on the side edge.

I am a 100% advocate of 3 degree side edge. Have a 3 on my Nordica Enforcer 100's & 110's
 

Atomicman

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A deep structure can really screw up a good ski. I had a test ski one time that I thought was railed horribly. Turned out the structure was so deep that it would stick to the snow any time the ski was slid sideways. Like stopping. That was exciting! Also, any transition between turns was pretty miserable.

EDIT: A deep structure IN THE WRONG CONDITIONS can really screw up a good ski.
Or if the structure gets in to the metal edge...
 

Tricia

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I always ski on my skis first before I touch the base edge. If it ain't broke why fix it! Most often I will leave the base alone and put a 3 on the side edge.

I am a 100% advocate of 3 degree side edge. Have a 3 on my Nordica Enforcer 100's & 110's
We like to...
  • check them
  • Ski them if they seem okay
  • Full base grind and tune if they don't seem okay
  • Try to discern the difference so we can relay that back to the ski brand.
I could be missing something, but @Philpug will correct me so we're safe.
 

slow-line-fast

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Factory tunes are like growing potatoes, there’s no telling what shape they’ll turn out to be.

I check flatness with a true bar, and ‘check’ my standard 1/3 by pulling a file at those angles. If you are getting back into it, it can help to use a marker to make marks on the edges every few inches or so, then see what the file is or is not removing. After a while you get a feel for it.

Skidad has a youtube video on new ski prep which is more involved.
 
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Levy1

Levy1

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Thank you
 

Max Capacity

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I check flatness with a true bar, and ‘check’ my standard 1/3 by pulling a file at those angles. If you are getting back into it, it can help to use a marker to make marks on the edges every few inches or so, then see what the file is or is not removing. After a while you get a feel for it.

Skidad has a youtube video on new ski prep which is more involved.

Yeah, For new skis, I use a black sharpie marker to darken the edge, then put a 200grit diamond stone on a steel 2* edge guide and gently run it down the edge. Most Volkl's come at 1/2. All my skis (Volkl's) are at 1/3 and have been for many years. Do the same black and 1* base guide.
Remember, you don't want to be taking material off the base edge unless you know what you're doing.
I touch my skis up after every ski day and maybe take a file to the edge if it's going to be icy tomorrow.

Here's a good site for tuning tips and stuff. https://www.tognar.com/
 

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