Much less porpoising needed with modern skis, midwidth and up.
It's happening to me with modern skis. The skis are porpoising, not me.
Maybe i don't understand what you mean. I'm not intentionally porpoising.
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Much less porpoising needed with modern skis, midwidth and up.
He knows what I mean.
Sounds right. No need for stiff to hold an edge on ice. But, that's torsional stiffness, right? You mean (longitudinal?) stiffness?
As to the porpoising I referred to, watching another Marcus Caston video, skiing in powder, gave me an insight. I'm thinking i want to finish the turn and be upright on my base in transition. But, the porpoising prevents me. Maybe I should think of porpoising like going over a mogul. Go over it and land on my base, or even air carve and land on my edge (but not really the edge in powder).
Anyway, I'd like to not porpoise. So, maybe a ski with less or no rocker, and soft so it will bend? I'll also try demo'ing the Bibby's and Pescado's that @MWL and @Mothertucker suggest.
You had me until that last line.
I'm 6'1/2" and around 200-210+ lbs. I've had no problem with the 190s and did not find them much work at all, but I'm not really a finesse skier. There's a pretty good amount of rocker on them, so I never considered the 184 version. Other skis I often ride are 185 Blizzard Cochise's which I also don't find to be too much if that helps provide context. I'm not sure if you spend a lot of time in tight moguls, they 190s would be the best choice though. I'll tell you though - I hadn't had skis this long since the 1990's, and was a bit apprehensive, but I got over that on my first run, and they are unbelievably stable off any jumps / small cliffs too - it's almost unreal.I just ordered these in 184. I went back and forth as to 184 vs 190 ad nauseam. What's your height and weight? You find the 190 to be quick/playful without much work?
Here's a picture of my 190 Moment Bibby's on the right, and my 188 Moment PB&Js on the left. The second picture is the base and rocker profile to give you a sense of their running length too. They're both quite stiff.I just ordered these in 184. I went back and forth as to 184 vs 190 ad nauseam. What's your height and weight? You find the 190 to be quick/playful without much work?
He knows what I mean.
Sounds right. No need for stiff to hold an edge on ice. But, that's torsional stiffness, right? You mean (longitudinal?) stiffness?
As to the porpoising I referred to, watching another Marcus Caston video, skiing in powder, gave me an insight. I'm thinking i want to finish the turn and be upright on my base in transition. But, the porpoising prevents me. Maybe I should think of porpoising like going over a mogul. Go over it and land on my base, or even air carve and land on my edge (but not really the edge in powder).
Anyway, I'd like to not porpoise. So, maybe a ski with less or no rocker, and soft so it will bend? I'll also try demo'ing the Bibby's and Pescado's that @MWL and @Mothertucker suggest.
I submerge and tip the skis for speed reduction and direction change
Much less porpoising needed with modern skis
I didn't even think about porpoising
It isn't really carving, but I know what you mean. We don't want (surface) flotation. We don't want to be surfing or waterskiing over the snow. We want to be in the snow skiing in 3 dimensions. You don't need to ever see your ski tips.
The techniques for good skiing on a groomer apply directly to powder.
Interesting. Maybe because I only ever got on "fat" skis after snowboarding for some time the need to feel my foot over the edge just isn't a thing for me. I get the physics - I'm not sure that I believe that the boot being close to the snow surface is what makes it right.
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How about if you think about it as "how much bend is in the ski at the given amount of float"? Surface-planing skis therefore reduce to "float with minimum ski bend" and so forth through boot-deep and knee deep.
Can't believe no one mentioned (unless I missed it) the Icelantic Shaman. Literally marketed as a powder carver. Full camber, with a 160mm tip, 110 waist and 130 tail. I don't think they make it anymore but it is at least worth a mention.
There's plenty of skis that didn't get a mention - anyone still like Volkl's 1-2-3 line for carving powder? - some IMO worthier. One also needs to be careful with marketing terms - all too often 'powder carver' means they aspire to a combination of powder and carving on non-powder
Interesting. Maybe because I only ever got on "fat" skis after snowboarding for some time the need to feel my foot over the edge just isn't a thing for me. I get the physics - I'm not sure that I believe that the boot being close to the snow surface is what makes it right.
I'm pretty glad I ski by feel rather than thinking hard about it and that for me wide skis relative to any given 3D snow feel good and natural.
Volkl 1-2-3 are a pretty standard powder design you can find in many skis. Full rocker, tapered tips/tails. Not a carving ski at all.
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To release the turn just relax your legs, the skis will flatten, maybe they'll rise to the surface, maybe they won't, then you roll them to the other edge for the next turn and allow your legs to extend
nothing for edges to carve into in or on powder
On packed snow you can pressure the tips aggressively in a turn, in powder if you do the dive klaxons will go off
In a turn, side cut only matters on a surface. Let that sink in
your depth in the snow decreases as you transition to the next turn
One of the most important transitions there is for a powder skier is when you can stop looking at your tips to gauge their depth, even stop caring if they are at or near the surface, and instead depend on the feeling under your foot telling you where the center of pressure is and the sensation/drag on the front of your legs(and chest if you're lucky) telling you how deep you are.
wouldn't rocker not matter much when fully immersed? Just like rocker doesn't matter much once the edge is fully engaged on packed snow. Rocker matters more in the transition.