OK - open question to both and any - what are your on-snow observables from these procedure amendments?
I think evaluating any subtle difference is next to impossible. Different day, different conditions, temperature, and so much more.
8,000 vertical feet on coldish NE packed powder and the bases are OK, marginal, but I'm going another short day on them. As I recall I could push 2 short days on the Momentium too.
My pleasure. I used paste last season entirely. I found the Dominator paste waxes to perform good as any waxes I have ever used, maybe better than some.Really very interesting, I'm up for anything that promotes more frequent tuning. Thanks @Jacques!
Was kind of curious about the difference also. Was getting light on a spray wax and decided to dominator a try. Ordered Renew base prep plus FFC P2B and P2C past this weekend. I’m not racing so I figured I’d start with the FFC paste.Why is the Elite alot more money than the FFC?
Bullet hot wax is still available, but with all the heat needed etc., you might be better served to try the Psycho paste.Not completely paste related, but any preferences for FFC 2C or Bullet? Also, with Bullet, is that a standalone wax, or is it recommended to be combined with Zoom
Because it has additional hydrophobic additives. I have found it well worth the $$. It only takes about 1 gram per ski, so go figure!Why is the Elite alot more money than the FFC?
You will not be disappointed with the FFC. Prep bases good, and get started with the paste! Let us know how it works for you.Was kind of curious about the difference also. Was getting light on a spray wax and decided to dominator a try. Ordered Renew base prep plus FFC P2B and P2C past this weekend. I’m not racing so I figured I’d start with the FFC paste.
Sweet! Use the prep, and whichever, and then let us know how it goes for you!I've taken the plunge with Dominator paste waxes and just ordered a few things. It's been 40 years since I've waxed skis - I have an iron and some scrapers around somewhere (and probably some 40 year old wax!) but ordered new brushes (nylon and brass), non-abrasive white scotchbrite, a scraper, and the paste waxes since I'd rather avoid using an iron.
I had a couple triggers that pushed me over the edge. First, my "daily drivers" seemed to be slowing down a bit. But the main thing was, I took my new Shaggys out of the wrapper today and I'm no pro, but it seemed to me like they had nothing on them. I checked the flatness at a few points and they looked pretty good actually, but as far as wax goes? I don't think there's ANYTHING on them.
So, I ordered the P1 base prep, the paste wax version - again I don't want to deal with an iron. May not be the ideal solution but it'll have to do.
I wanted to get the P2B for a glide wax, but it was out of stock. So instead I ordered P2 and P2C. I may or may not get the P2B at some point - I'm guessing for what I do, I can go a bit out of range on one of the others and be just fine. Time will tell.
More news as it develops...
Do you let the paste cure/dry, then cork it in? I question how deep the wax gets into the pores. I have Dominator paste but starting to wonder if it lasts very long. I may go back to hot waxing...Hi - trying to answer your two questions:
When traveling, I generally cork the skis in the hotel bathroom and then brush out the skis on the patio if the hotel/condo has one. If not, out in the parking lot before putting the skis back into the roof box on the car.
When working at home in my basement, I roto brush the skis there. I wear a respirator with 3M P100 particulate filters while running the brush. It seems like I kick up more stuff into the air when using the roto.
I honestly don't know if breathing the roto brush dust is more or less hazardous than the spray wax overspray. The one time I tried spraying wax indoors it seemed to me that I was getting it all over the bench. I suppose I could spread newspapers out next time.
Nice! Supposed to apply the cleaner prep. paste thicker, brush wet, then scrape after drying prior to brush if I'm not mistaken.Let it dry for 30 minutes, cork, or otherwise rub it in, brush. I use the FFC1 base prep, dry/rub/brush then the FFC2 dry/rub/brush. Every 15-20K vertical of skiing. Works well for me, protects the base and have plenty of glide. Not going back to hot waxing.
Thanks! Yeah, it seems like a spring structure does more than the wax, but I do feel an improvement after applying the yellow wax. I don't need ultimate performance, but want its slickness without the spray-on mess.@Marker Depends how much you want to spend. Elite OS 3P would be very good. Legacy OS 2QP best. FFC 2P cheapest, but will suffice quite well. I have found that it takes about 1 gram per ski, so 2 grams for a wax job that will last all day, or a few half days.
Once the snow "goes-off", there is no "magic" wax. Just keep that in mind.
As the snow becomes more "dirty", you need the graphite that Dominator has in all the paste waxes.Thanks! Yeah, it seems like a spring structure does more than the wax, but I do feel an improvement after applying the yellow wax. I don't need ultimate performance, but want its slickness without the spray-on mess.