Looks like there was a stop on the stone. Think it will affect the ski? Can feel it slightly on the edge as well.
Was it a blue machine or a green one? I am betting the former.Thanks Phil! Really appreciate the advice, and that is exactly where it happened on the ski.
I wasn't paying attention. You can feel it slightly on the base edge as well. Worth it to reset the base bevel, or just leave it alone?Was it a blue machine or a green one? I am betting the former.
Leave it. Your double version on Moment's Triple Camber. I would go back to the shop adn show them you might be entitled to compensation, like a free grind for future use.I wasn't paying attention. You can feel it slightly on the base edge as well. Worth it to reset the base bevel, or just leave it alone?
Looks like someone selected the “pre-grind linear structure” which is sometimes used during the flattening stage but usually is followed by a universal broken linear structure.
Might be a very hard ski to turn and I’d definitely take it back for final passes to correct it. You should never be able to feel the structure that easily, even coarse wet snow structure.
Jacques, do you think it’s an issue? Haven’t skiied these yet.
Can't that structure on the base edges be hand polished out without increasing the bevel degree? Or are those edges flat and yet to have the base bevel set?
Some kids rental edges have the disc marks that look like serrations. I wonder if the EVO disc tuner leaves the same.
If they are slow, and hard to slide (skid) then just do as I showed if you have the tools.Jacques, do you think it’s an issue? Haven’t skiied these yet.
Take it back to the shop that f’d up? I’ll skip that pro tip.Pro hint
Take it back to the shop that did this work
Or just take it to starthaus Truckee
Some people like to argue with shop guys …Take it back to the shop that f’d up? I’ll skip that pro tip.
That looks a little better!Took these to the amazing California Ski Company in Berkeley. New grind, structure and edges the way it should be done.
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