why do my edges feel less sharp after diamond stone?

[Henry]

If you take a look with a jewelers loupe, you'll probably find the filed edge is much rougher than the stoned edge. That's why it "feels" sharper.

I have a double magnifier, 10X & 20X, that folds up like a small pocket knife. I often find the 20X too much. And under $10 on Amazon.

Whats the best way to start down this path of learning to perform your own wax/tunes? I think I'd still bring skis in for major base/edge grinds but I really want to learn how to properly care for my edges via honing, and learn to wax effectively.

Find the edge angles that work best for your technique and snow. I like .075° base and 3°sides for groomer skis and 1° base and 2° sides for deep snow skis...'cuz the hidden rocks knock out a smaller divot in the less acute angle. Buy base & side guides for your angles. You may need a ski file, because hardware store files aren't hard enough. I use the file only to change the angles; they remove a lot of steel. I use coarse & medium diamond stones and a fine ceramic stone for the final hone plus a stone lube. Let the shop do the grind and put on your angles, then you touch them up through the season. For the base just remove raised burrs; stone it in the guide just until the stone runs quiet. For the sides you can remove burrs and leave the divots or take off more until the divots are gone, always in the guide. Remove as little steel as gets the job done. At some point you may need a sidewall planer tool to remove a bit of the sidewall material so the steel stands high and is easier to sharpen. Medium pressure on the files and stones is just right. Only push the file forward with the tang in your right hand or pull it back with the tang in your left hand. Don't scrub the file both ways on the steel; that dulls it. Medium pressure, take a cut, raise it off the metal for the return stroke.

For waxing decide what level you want to do. A minimum is a universal wax, dribble on with a warm iron, smooth with the warm iron never stopping the motion, don't let the topside get more than barely warm, stop & let harden. As a minimum, remelt the wax and wipe the molten excess wax off with a paper towel. Go skiing. Or, scrape the hardened wax off with a scraper. Maybe brush it. Up to you. Or get waxes suitable for the temperature you expect.

For both sharpening and waxing, less is often more. Don't oversharpen, remove a lot of steel, and shorten the life of the skis. Don't overheat when waxing and ruin your skis. Buy or make ski vises or find a way to securely hold the skis in position. Use the strong rubber bands off a bunch of broccoli or buy bands to hold the brakes out of the way. A $35 or $40 wax iron from Amazon or eBay will do the job as long as it has a thermostat that holds a relatively constant temperature. You do not want the wax so hot it smokes.

 

[Atomicman]

I have a double magnifier, 10X & 20X, that folds up like a small pocket knife. I often find the 20X too much. And under $10 on Amazon.


Find the edge angles that work best for your technique and snow. I like .075° base and 3°sides for groomer skis and 1° base and 2° sides for deep snow skis...'cuz the hidden rocks knock out a smaller divot in the less acute angle. Buy base & side guides for your angles. You may need a ski file, because hardware store files aren't hard enough. I use the file only to change the angles; they remove a lot of steel. I use coarse & medium diamond stones and a fine ceramic stone for the final hone plus a stone lube. Let the shop do the grind and put on your angles, then you touch them up through the season. For the base just remove raised burrs; stone it in the guide just until the stone runs quiet. For the sides you can remove burrs and leave the divots or take off more until the divots are gone, always in the guide. Remove as little steel as gets the job done. At some point you may need a sidewall planer tool to remove a bit of the sidewall material so the steel stands high and is easier to sharpen. Medium pressure on the files and stones is just right. Only push the file forward with the tang in your right hand or pull it back with the tang in your left hand. Don't scrub the file both ways on the steel; that dulls it. Medium pressure, take a cut, raise it off the metal for the return stroke.

For waxing decide what level you want to do. A minimum is a universal wax, dribble on with a warm iron, smooth with the warm iron never stopping the motion, don't let the topside get more than barely warm, stop & let harden. As a minimum, remelt the wax and wipe the molten excess wax off with a paper towel. Go skiing. Or, scrape the hardened wax off with a scraper. Maybe brush it. Up to you. Or get waxes suitable for the temperature you expect.

For both sharpening and waxing, less is often more. Don't oversharpen, remove a lot of steel, and shorten the life of the skis. Don't overheat when waxing and ruin your skis. Buy or make ski vises or find a way to securely hold the skis in position. Use the strong rubber bands off a bunch of broccoli or buy bands to hold the brakes out of the way. A $35 or $40 wax iron from Amazon or eBay will do the job as long as it has a thermostat that holds a relatively constant temperature. You do not want the wax so hot it smokes.

Henry it's .75 (3/4 of 1 degree) and there is no reason not to have a 3 degree side edge on all skis. Side edge has little to no effect in soft or deep snow.

 

[Hankj]

Depending on what kid of stones one uses, they can flex a bit, and that can change the edge a bit.
Don't over press the stones, and don't over stone! Just a few passes with each grit.
Stones are for polish, and a bit of burr removal, not to sharpen.
It is important to use them, but don't over do it with them, and keep the pressure above the edge, not beyond it.

thanks - very helpful concept