tuning waxing kids skis worth it?

[Wilhelmson]

We ski in ice, rain, rocks, whatever. The reason I started tuning was that I wanted us to be safe on ice and dull edges promote sliding rather than edging.

 

[Burton]

For me as an adult, the difference between a well-tuned ski and an un-tuned or poorly tuned ski is night and day. While a kid on 90-110s may not be arcing turns, or trying to get the best glide possible, you want them to have the tools that makes doing those things as easy as possible, right? I may be an outlier because my 8 and 10 year olds race, on eastern conditions, but I tune their skis every week, and I'm teaching them how to do it themselves.

And here's a benefit of tuning kid boards not mentioned yet: they're great to use to learn how to tune. Doing a basic tune is a no-brainer, but getting a tune dialed is a developed skill with many mistakes made along the way. The amount of practice I've gotten working on my kids skis that I got for either free or cheap has saved my spendy race skis a lot of life. I spent a few hours this past weekend bringing back a pair of kids race skis from the dead--they were third hand, and the prior owner used them as rock skis before they were evidently stored in a wet basement--they were so bad I got them free and with an apology. I planed the sidewalls, buffed off rust with the gummi, aggressively filed in new angles, SANDED and used a steel scraper until I was standing in a pile of P-Tex, and then I built the tune back up by buffing with every grade of fibertex, brushed the living hell out of them, honed the edges with diamond stones, hot scraped three times, and then waxed. In short, I used all the toys on my bench, and if I'd screwed up (seriously, sanding?) no biggie, I'd throw them in the bin. The end result is a pretty sweet pair of skis for early season free skiing, and I'm now slightly less of a hack in the wax room.

 

[Muleski]

Yes. Do it.

So the nice by-product was that during our kids ski academy years, they were each tuning at least a pair of two every night. Light touch ups generally, brush, wax, brush. Both developed a very "good hand" pretty young. For about a six year run, when the tuning was largely taking place in our house and our tuning room, they always tuned my skis and my wife's. They'd ask what we were going to ski on the next day, and scrape and brush. They clean up what we had skied on and throw on some wax. Took them very little time, and was much appreciated. Miss those days!

But seriously by all means keep them tuned and loaded with wax if they have sintered bases.

 

[Eleeski]

Why?

I'm just relating my experience with wax. I can feel the smooth glide for a very short time. After that, not so much. Maybe I just adapt or maybe I'm just feeling the last 10%. Sure feels like most of the wax effect is gone in a run or two.

Racers wax between runs. Probably because that fresh wax makes a difference measurable in the times.

Abused skis are noticeable. Decent edges and bases are important for kids too. But a race ready tune and wax was lost on my kids. They were pretty talented but don't compete racing. I'd check their skis after they did some screwy skiing (tree grinds, parking lot skating, lift line ski overs, you know - kid stuff). But really, they hardly noticed their skis.

Now they just click into my skis if they don't like their tune.

Eric

 

[murphysf]

thanks for any replies, so as L&AirC said good wax and clean edges free of nicks, I will start by doing this.

any good videos on you tube for wax and clean edges free of nicks, I saw the REI videos, is this a good place to start or are there others that you recommend?

I picked up a old skool tune kit off of craigslist for $12, it might have been a kit from Any Mountain , those of you from the bay area may remember it, will post it next...

 

[murphysf]

this is what I got

not sure what is for what

if there is anything I should toss let me know

thanks!

 

[KingGrump]

Wow, that is a cool wax iron.

Never seen one like that, Talk about minimalist.

 

[oldschoolskier]

Depends upon how much you love your kids.

And if they misbehave use honey instead, that'll teach'm

 

[Blue Streak]

Wow, that is a cool wax iron.

Never seen one like that, Talk about minimalist.

Yeah, looks like it has a good 18" of cord. If that

 

[KingGrump]

Looks like they wack off the end of a bad extension cord. Threaded it through a bike grip and shorted it out on a hunk of steel so it would generate some heat when plugged in.
Thermostat? We don't need no stinkin' thermostat. It is hot enough when the ptex puddles.

That is about as simple as it gets. Although not sure that is a good thing.

 

[Blue Streak]

$12?
Hey, it gets the ball rolling, even if most of it will eventually end up in the garbage.
I'm not convinced that electrical device is an iron.
I think it might be a good charcoal starter.

 

[KingGrump]

@Blue Streak I think you are right. Pretty sure It is a charcoal starter.

@murphysf Sorry to make fun of you score. In all seriousness, it's OK for $12. Whatever you do, ditch the charcoal starter thing or pair that with your BBQ.

I know you are working with a budget so let me go through the tuning/waxing process for you and give you a quick evaluation of the stuff you just picked up.

The 3 REI video you mentioned are good for folks just starting to work on their skis. They kept it simple and showed minimal requirement of tools. A very good thing.

How to Tune Skis #1: Edge Work || REI

How to Tune Skis #2: Base Repair || REI

How to Tune Skis #3: Waxing || REI

The first video is what I would call deburring. For that you'll need a diamond stone. Do not use a file if you have burrs on your skis. The burrs are harder than the files and it will chew up the files. You can free hand the diamond stone if you have good hands.

A good and inexpensive stone -- $13.38.

The second video is doing base repair using a ptex drip candle. You have couple of ptex candles in you new kit. You may want to pick up several black ones to match the black bases. The Kwik metal scraper should be pretty good for that.

Waxing wise - as I said before -- DO NOT use that charcoal lighter thing. This Xcman unit for $25 should be acceptable. If you want to go cheaper. Spent $5 to $10 for an iron at your local thrift store. Make sure the wax doesn't smoke and you should be OK. The blue plastic scraper is from the last century. It is serviceable. A better bet is find a 3"x6" piece of scrap plexi, true up one edge and go to town with it. Wax remover wise, the can you have will work if you don't mind the solvent. I have no issue with solvents. I often just get a can of naphtha from Home Depot. Lots of skiers like the more enviornmentally friendly citrus stuff.

After you mastered all the stuff shown in the videos. You'll be ready to move onto actually sharpen your skis. Your kit contains most of the items required. With an addition of a file guide for side edge*-$12.99, you're ready to go. You'll have to pick the side edge angle you wanted. Pick up a small spring clamp to hold the files on guide. The two files looks OK. Check the big one to make sure it's not a ski file rather than hardware store variety. The file card is good to keep your files clean. The white stone will help in the post filing deburr process. You can clean up the stone with a brass brush or a piece of Scotch Brite.

* The piece of metal with the slot is probably what the last guy used as a side edge file guide. It'll work if all you are looking for is 90 degree.

 

[murphysf]

thanks kin grump

I am surprised people don't know this iron and it is a ski wax iron see picture and part number, don't think it was ever used.

Yes I thought the same thing about the three prong plug and cord however the handle has security screws, triangle type not the typical torx type and it looks like it was never take apart.

Never the less see attached pictures, it has the make and model number. Sureheat Hot Ski Wax Iron Model # 340-0034

The tools and bag of items is kwik brand.

I think that this is from the late 70s or early 80s.

SO I don't mind investing a bit and if it is recommended that I do not use this iron I am willing to spend more than $25 on the Xcman, what would be the next best iron a price notch or so above this one?

 

[murphysf]

looking on amazon it might be better to just buy a kit instead of buying everything individually, unless you think I should keep what I got and add a few things, or should I toss everything and start over?

 

[markojp]

http://www.tognar.com/kits_tool_wax_ski_snowboard.html

 

[CalG]

Wax and tune if you want.

Then when the day is over, ask those kids if anything was special about the day. If they mention the skis, I'll buy the next round!

Forget it!

Keep the edges burr free and call it good! Kids are all about FUN!

 

[murphysf]

what type of gummy stone should I purchase?

On ebay I see Swix for $11 shipped. They have blue (extra hard) , red (hard) and grey (soft).

If I was to buy one what is recommended? A blue one like in the REI video?

 

[KingGrump]

That is a cool iron. My only reservation is the lack of a thermostat.

Don't throw away the kit. Almost everything is still usable. Just needs a little TLC.

The link posted by @markojp have decent kits for waxing. The 120v $89 kit with the yellow Toko iron is a good deal.
If you want to buy an iron separately. The Swix T74 is a nice on for $90. The Swix T77 is also a nice smaller iron for $54.

I generally use the blue gummy stone for deburring. The red and grey I used for rust removal.

I'm a firm believe of buying tools only once. Most of the stuff we have been talking about will last a long time with the proper usage and care. Much better value in the long run.

 

[Wilhelmson]

If you're skiing less than 10 days a year don't worry about it until you notice your skis slipping on ice. More than 10 days a BASIC setup would save you money in the long run.

 

[Jacques]

thanks for any replies, so as L&AirC said good wax and clean edges free of nicks, I will start by doing this.

any good videos on you tube for wax and clean edges free of nicks, I saw the REI videos, is this a good place to start or are there others that you recommend?

I picked up a old skool tune kit off of craigslist for $12, it might have been a kit from Any Mountain , those of you from the bay area may remember it, will post it next...

Here is basic tuning from me.
Here is a basic waxing.