To Rotobrush or not to Rotobrush?

[Blue Streak]

Scraping? Scraping?
We don’t need no stinking scraping!
Or at least not much

 

[hbear]

You can also sharpen scrapers with a drywall sanding screen. Use a block of wood as a guide to keep the scraper vertical. I did that for a while, but have the Mantac now. I love my toys.

I don’t even use the wood block as I can free hand it pretty well.

A few bucks for some drywall mesh and I’m good for the season.

I do run my scraper over a towel after sanding it to take off any burr.

 

[Jacques]

Sacrebleu! This is the Devil speaking heresy!

No not at all. One just need to make sure it's not too sharp and do not burnish it. I keep one for scraping wax as such. For base flattening I use another one that I sharpen and burnish.
Way better than plastic.

 

[L&AirC]

So for the past 4-5 years I've been getting more and more serious about tuning and waxing. I pretty much never ski without first hot waxing and brushing out my skis. I was considering going the rotobrush route, having found what looks like a decent starter kit for around $200. I was just wondering from people who have done it how they feel about the investment. I do get kind of tired of all the hand brushing when I'm doing like 3 or more pairs, but honestly most of the time it's just one pair and it's not really too big of a deal.

So, what's the verdict, roto-people? Will it change my life? Or would I be better off finding something better to spend my $200 on?

I love my roto brush set up. I have most all of them. I primarily use the wild boar hair and the nylons.

I love my hand brushes. I have most all of them. I primarily use the wild boar, brass/horse hair, nylons.

Unless there has been a change in design, the cover guard isn't all that appealing to me because you have to take the whole handle off to change brushes.

 

[Xela]

Getting back to drills... I must be roto-brushing a lot slower than the rest of the world. The way I see it, it's a lot faster than my hand brushing and I don't want to be re-melting the wax with friction. I use a cordless drill and don't pull the trigger all the way. I get the results I want, so...

 

[Levy1]

I believe @Monique got one of those purple monsters. Maybe she will chime in.

The 3 piece kit is a good way to go. I would get the kit with quick change shaft/handle instead. Never feel the requirement for the plastic guard. The fixed shaft and guard just slows things down.

Sidecut from Canada is fairly new to the mix. Never seen one in real life. I believe @Levy1 bought a kit last season.

Best friend best I've made yet for being a lazy tuner. Quick and easy to use speed is amazing and I find myself frequently waxing because I can get right out to the slopes in a short amount wax
prep time. Don't go to fast on the drill speed.

 

[Karl B]

Love my roto-brush! Horse hair and blue nylon. I also broke down and bought a roto-cork last spring for those times I need a quick wax and don't have a place or time to hot wax.

Karl

 

[Chris Walker]

OK, I got my skis back from getting a fresh grind, I excitedly waxed and scraped and was all ready to start the rotobrush chapter of my life, and...the drill wasn't charged.

Another reason to go corded, I suppose. Oh well, the rotobrush era will begin once charging is complete.

 

[Johnny V.]

On all the recreational skis I tune, a scrape and rotobrush and they're good to go. I take more time on my race skis using a combination of roto and hand brushing. No, for me it isn't going to make a huge difference, but I'd hate to lose to a guy in my age group by a .02 sec because I didn't brush enough (let's disregard all the other things I do wrong!).

 

[Atomicman]

Stupid questions: does rotobrushing eliminate the need for scraping? Is a rotobrushed ski faster than a hand brushed ski? Is there a big learning curve?

I have 3 junior racers and for me the most dreaded part of the routine is scraping. This conversation makes me wonder if I'm not brushing properly or adequately. My kids are U16 and U14 and (so far) only skiing tech events, but they are fairly competitive. They are also really light so I figure any speed advantage they can get is a good thing.

The key to making scraping easier is not to over-wax in the first place. Crayon the wax and use Fiberlene sheets to absorb excess wax immediately after waxng. One sheet does one PAIR of skis. https://www.amazon.com/Swix-Fiberle...pID=41bIidYC5PL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

So this box will do 100 pair of skis.

It also helps prevent overheating the bases. Leaves an extremely even thin coat of wax that is much easier to scrape.

 

[Sibhusky]

Racewax is selling a complete (3) set of Rotobrushes and shield for $129:

• New! RaceWax RotoBrushes. RaceWax brand rotobrushes start at $29 up to $129 for a complete set. They are completely compatible with Swix, Toko, and other name brands .

Individual brushes for $29: http://www.racewax.com/racewax-gold-nylon-ski-roto-brush/
http://www.racewax.com/racewax-horsehair-ski-roto-brush/

 

[Atomicman]

OK, I got my skis back from getting a fresh grind, I excitedly waxed and scraped and was all ready to start the rotobrush chapter of my life, and...the drill wasn't charged.

Another reason to go corded, I suppose. Oh well, the rotobrush era will begin once charging is complete.

you should really Hot Scrape a couple of times after a grind and use something like Dominator Base Renew (3 different Products depending on Application) One for Clear Bases, Graphite Renew for Black bases and they now have Race Renew. then do a normal wax with Renew , let it dry and scrape it and then wax and scrape with your final wax.

 

[Hermanator]

I enjoy reading threads like this. No matter how much you think you know and how long you have been at it you can always learn something.

When I had multiple kids racing USSA and FIS in all the events SL, GS, SG, DH, (plus my own beer league racing) ski tuning was a full time job in addition to a full time job trying to pay for it all! I got a SVST roto brush set up and it did change my life. However, final brushing for race events I still use nice oval brushes. I use the roto for pre-wax cleaning (brass or brass/horse hair) and for post wax/scrap first brush. After that I go to the hand brushes. I also use the velco drum and fibertex for polishing after stone grinds. However, I just attended a ski tuning event where the national SWIX rep said that the new stone grinding machines are so good that they produce a race ready speed ski. No need for repeated waxing/scraping/brushing/repeat as many times as you can.

Of course, anytime you can include a power tool the fun factor goes up!

 

[Sibhusky]

I didn't give up brushing with getting the rotobrushes. I just alternate between the rotos and a succession of brushes.

 

[Blue Streak]

Harbor Freight, 3/8 inch variable speed corded drill. 0-3000rpm so you can vary to suit the brush. You can usually find it with a coupon for about $13. All you need for the business end. And a lot lighter than a decent cordless one.!

I just bought a swix set-up, and I plan on buying this drill to support it.
I don't wax cordless! I think I can handle a corded drill.
Thanks for the idea!

 

[focker]

You can also sharpen scrapers with a drywall sanding screen. Use a block of wood as a guide to keep the scraper vertical. I did that for a while, but have the Mantac now. I love my toys.

Get one of http://www.tognar.com/swix-plexi-scraper-sharpener-t0408/ these for $13. Works so well.

 

[Jersey Skier]

The key to making scraping easier is not to over-wax in the first place. Crayon the wax and use Fiberlene sheets to absorb excess wax immediately after waxng. One sheet does one PAIR of skis. https://www.amazon.com/Swix-Fiberle...pID=41bIidYC5PL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

So this box will do 100 pair of skis.

It also helps prevent overheating the bases. Leaves an extremely even thin coat of wax that is much easier to scrape.

Well since I rotobrush with $12 purple pig brush, what is the difference between Fiberlene and Bounty?

 

[KingGrump]

Well since I rotobrush with $12 purple pig brush, what is the difference between Fiberlene and Bounty?

About 20 cents per sheet.

 

[Atomicman]

About 20 cents per sheet.

Sorry...totally different material. Try pulling your iron along the ski with a Sheet of Bounty under it that is saturated in wax....and paper is fuzzy. NO thanks. You guys trying to save 20 cents when you spend thousands on gear, wax, and lift tickets is just plain laughable!

 

[KingGrump]

Sorry...totally different material. Try pulling your iron along the ski with a Sheet of Bounty under it that is saturated in wax....and paper is fuzzy. NO thanks. You guys trying to save 20 cents when you spend thousands on gear, wax, and lift tickets is just plain laughable!

Well, if the dude is using a $12 pig brush. Twenty cent may just break the bank.

Usage of Bounty for waxing is not my cup of tea skiing. Perhaps to wipe up the spilled tea only.