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Rust on edges - removal ?

Pete in Idaho

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One of my good friends wife bought some skis from "somewhere" and they arrived with rusty edges and active rust not just rust markings.

Before I try to remove thought I would ask here the right way to do this. Short of taking into a shop and having done professionally how should I proceed. I do all my own work but have never seen skis with actively growing rust on the edges. Help !
 

razie

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If the rust is superficial, then a simple gummy stone will do. use it like an eraser.

If the rust is not that superficial, there isn't much to do but file the thing (file or rather diamonds) until rust-be-gone.

on the base edge, you should take them to a shop - it's tricky to remove enough metal to be rust-free without messing significantly with the base edge.

If the skis are so neglected however, you should forget all this and take them to a shop - honestly. THEN take care of them yourself. I take most skis (many pairs) to a base grind almost every season. I suggest most should do the same... at least when skiing hardpack in the east.

a base grind is like 20$ and will reset everything to what it should be.
 
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Pete in Idaho

Pete in Idaho

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Yep, base grind would be easiest. However I am 4 hours from Spokane and I don't know if anyone can do this time of year. Does anyone know if Naval Jelly will hurt the bases?
 

crgildart

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If the edges of the skis are rusting they are probably also pitted. Just removing the brown with some acidic solution isn't going to be enough. The edges won't be smooth until the material is taken down until flat and smooth. Hard work with a file or base grinder is the only way I know of to get there. If you're really good with a belt sander, and the skis aren't all that expensive, you could clamp them down and very carefully bent sand them, start with around 120 grit and keep moving never spending too much time in any one spot to replicate passing them over an old school belt base grinder.. After carefully sanding them down flat to the point the rust is almost all gone then switch to a file. Do NOT use a belt on the sides!!! But, I wouldn't try that with an expensive pair of skis. Rust pitted skis where taking them to a shop far away cost more in your time than the skis are worth might be worth the risk though.
 

James

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Razie, I wish we could get $20 grinds!!!
Really.
The problem with everyone getting $350k tuning machines is those simple $20 grinds are now $55.

Just use sandpaper on a piece of wood and sand the whole base. If one is good with a belt sander-ok but that's a potential disaster. You'd be better off with an orbital sander and a stiff pad. But then likely you're talking a very good sander where you can change the pad. And is it really stiff enough? So it get's involved. Probably easier to buy thrift store skis.

Middlebury Snowbowl is the only shop I've seen that specifically lists rust removal on their prices.
IMG_2261.JPG

http://www.middleburysnowbowl.com/ski-shop/rental-rates/
 

crgildart

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$12 is a bargain to anyone who has ever removed pitted rust from edges with a hand file or sanding block.
 
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Pete in Idaho

Pete in Idaho

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James, any tips on sandpapering? Do edges, then do base for flatness the usual way? Preference on grit of sandpaper and anything on sanding method to use (i.e. sshortd strokes, long etc. ?

Also, Naval Jelly use, if I am careful will it hurt the bases of the ski's. These are not "good" skis just want to do a favor for a friend.
 

crgildart

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Also, Naval Jelly use, if I am careful will it hurt the bases of the ski's. These are not "good" skis just want to do a favor for a friend.

Pete, my first thought for a new method rather than elbow grease was CLR. However, it seems to me that if anything acidic seeps between the edge and base it could compromise the adhesive holding the ski together. I wouldn't use anything caustic on something where there are seams and glues which could be compromised.
 

razie

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Razie, I wish we could get $20 grinds!!!
And that was $CDN, so like even less :) they did a good job too: Corbetts in Oakville. Had 15 skis done beginning of last season...

I see Middleburry's list in James's post there also quotes "factory refinish" at 20$ I would assume that's the basic base grind?

If you're really good with a belt sander, and the skis aren't all that expensive,
:eek:
nobody is good enough to belt sand a ski flat with a portable belt sander. Not that I haven't thought about it...

If you really do want to sand a ski, then...

Start with 150 and then 220 grit Aluminum Oxide sand paper. Do not use "garnet" sand paper (typical for furniture) - it will scar the base, as it loses "grits".

Wrap the sandpaper on a flat file. I use a round 1 inch hardwood dowel - which you can roll slightly as you move along the base, exposing new sandpaper without stopping to rewind. Try to keep pressure constant and even on both edges. Don't press directly on the edges, as it may result in a convex ski base - that's a technique to get the proper base bevel with a file, free hand, but I would not attempt it if you haven't done tens of skis...

Follow up with a steel brush and fibertex pads, to smooth out the grooves in the base.

Alternatively, use the Ski Visions base flattener tool or a stiff steel scraper, carefully - it can speed up the cleanup job.

The trouble with sanding the base is it requires quite a few tools to clean it up properly.

Then do the edges, with diamonds in the proper guide (0.5 or 1- the sanding will leave them a little less flat, you'll see) and then file/diamonds on the side to restore the edge.

It can be done. It's not a big deal, but it takes a while though and you have to be careful.

More details here.

Good luck.
:golfclap:
 
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James

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I suspect Jacques has a rust removal video...It may be 2 hours long.ogsmile

I see Middleburry's list in James's post there also quotes "factory refinish" at 20$ I would assume that's the basic base grind?
And that place is like lost valley of the dinosaurs. And about as convienient to get to. (Thus they advertise rust removal - as people drag out skis from the early Ptexocene epoch.)

Though I love the bowl, never seen the shop.
 

James

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Let us know.
We're kind of assuming no base bevel on the metal. Which is actually unlikely. Flat sanding ptex might take this side of forever to get the metal edge all the way down through the bevel. Sand paper around a file is good. Once, (if), you get to a grit that you can use wet/dry silicon carbide paper I'd be tempted to try it wet. But ptex is just not a great sanding material by hand.

Naval jelly- I've hated that stuff since a kid when it promised miracles ...and did next to nothing! I think it made me question the competence of the Navy. (As if they had anything to do with it. Plus, who's navy?) The name still makes me mad.

I have had some success with Evapo Rust, but that requires near immersion.
 

oldschoolskier

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There are some other chemicals out there such as rust check and a few others that convert to rust into something else similar to a Parkerising process or Blueing Process.

http://www.busybeetools.com/products/rust-remover-evaporust-1l.html

They will not remove pitting however will stop rust. So a simple wipe on wipe off process could work. I suspect you may have to lightly touch the side and base with for a quick tune/clean up. I would not worry about pitting unless it is excessive and/or deep (or if they are race skis).

One other concern neutralize the rust or you will be doing this again.
 

fmcl

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ive always wrapped my skis in plastic cling wrap thinking this would stop rust. is this something i just do because or does it actually work?
 

oldschoolskier

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ive always wrapped my skis in plastic cling wrap thinking this would stop rust. is this something i just do because or does it actually work?
There is the risk that if you have any moisture left you can cause worse problems as driving the moisture into the core of the ski.
 

trailtrimmer

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Scotchbrite and water to lubricate. Take most of it off, don't worry about leaving a little staining and set the side bevel when complete.

Or if the seller mis-represented the condition, see if they will refund enough for a full grind.
 

crgildart

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:eek:
nobody is good enough to belt sand a ski flat with a portable belt sander. Not that I haven't thought about it...

If you really do want to sand a ski, then...

Start with 150 and then 220 grit Aluminum Oxide sand paper. Do not use "garnet" sand paper (typical for furniture) - it will scar the base, as it loses "grits".

Wrap the sandpaper on a flat file. I use a round 1 inch hardwood dowel - which you can roll slightly as you move along the base, exposing new sandpaper without stopping to rewind. Try to keep pressure constant and even on both edges. Don't press directly on the edges, as it may result in a convex ski base - that's a technique to get the proper base bevel with a file, free hand, but I would not attempt it if you haven't done tens of skis...

First ski grinds were done with a belt sander bolted upside down to a table passing the ski across it at a steady pace. It is doable but I wouldn't try it on "good skis", only stuff that's pretty far gone, rock skis at best. I have done it in the past, started with 100 grit then did a pass with 600 to shine them up.
 

Eleeski

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Don't store your skis at the beach in San Diego and they won't rust. Stainless rusts in San Diego!

I've got a little benchtop belt sander. I do touch up my rock skis with it. The problem is it takes off more edge than base. Lots of scraping with a matte knife blade deals with this. Then I can work on the edges (rock ski days always seem to be firm - needing good edges). Now I have a lot of hours messing with the skis (at least there is a TV in the garage). I might be better off sending them out to a good shop for a real performance grind...

The rust scrapes off after a couple laps of skiing.

Eric
 

fmcl

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There is the risk that if you have any moisture left you can cause worse problems as driving the moisture into the core of the ski.
Good point.
I live in a dry inland climate so probably have gotten away withbit so far
But used to live by the sea and didnt wrap and the edges rusted really badly.
Perhaps ill think about putting a silicon packet in with the skis next time
 

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