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Xela

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I recently bought a Razor-Tune. It's a power sharpener for ski side edges. I decided to document my first time using it. I tested on an old Blizzard GSR. The photos were taken with a macro lens and cropped/resized so they represent the same exact section of side edge with the same number of pixels.

Here's what the ski looked like before. It had a coat of storage wax over a hand tune. I rubbed off most of the wax with a cloth.
full


After 4-5 passes with the coarse wheel, it looked like this:
full


Next I did 6-8 passes with the medium wheel and got this:
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I then put some WD-40 on the fine wheel and did four passes, yielding this:
full


I then polished the base edge with a yellow (400) Moonflex in a 1-degree guide and got this (not much different):
full


Finally, for comparison, I hand polished the side edge with a yellow Moonflex in a 3-degree guide, resulting in this:
full


The Razor-Tune comes from the factory set for 3-degrees. There's also a 2-degree plate in the box. It's pretty straightforward to use if you're coordinated enough to hand-tune skis. The coarse and medium wheels will make some sparks. Due to the metal dust, it's a good idea to wear a respirator.

The sharpening gets a little tricky near the tips and tails due to the compound curves and lack of purchase for the guide bearings. It may be a good idea to sharpen these areas by hand. Or, maybe these areas don't need sharpening. My whole point in buying this was to save time.

To me, the last two photos both look pretty good. Clearly, the scratch patterns go in different directions. Accounting for that, I think the result from the Razor-Tune is actually finer. I suspect that the diagonal grind may cut into ice better than the parallel pattern.

At the moment, I'm a satisfied customer. It remains to be seen how much af a hassle the metal dust ends up being for indoor use. Also, we'll see if the noise wakes my kids at night. It's not super-loud, but it is an electric grinder after all.
 

Tony S

I have a confusion to make ...
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As someone who seems to have a knack for taking big rock bites out of carving ski edges, and who therefore ends up finding it amusing when people advocate never breaking out a file, I'm interested in the idea of something that can really remove material. Price?
 

Tony S

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never mind. I clicked the link. doh.
 

Zrxman01

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Nice pics!!! I am able to get a super sharp and smooth edge by hand but man it takes me a long time. This should be a great time saver!!!

This is definitely on my "must" have for the coming season.

In preparation I picked up a Swix sidewall stripper to compliment my Beast pansar version.

When I got to demo the Swix and Razor tune versions last April we noticed any extra plastic left on the edges turns the grinder wheels into a gooey mess.


IMG_3955.JPG
IMG_3956.JPG
 

Jacques

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Nice work, but I'll stick to hand tuning. Check out a bit of dreaming.

 

BGreen

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@Xela Thanks for the great write up. Would you be willing to keep track of how long the grinding wheels last and report back?

In preparation I picked up a Swix sidewall stripper to compliment my Beast pansar version.

I think you’ll find you still use both. Swix to remove sidewall, Beast panzer to remove and radius the titanal.
 

Snowfan

aka Eric Nelson
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I can't get my head around what I'm looking at. Is the top bright metal the edge? It seems too thin? Is the mostly diagonally lined section core or what? It's so close up I have no grasp of what I'm looking at.

Side edge. Ski is base up.
 

oldschoolskier

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Couple of comments on the edges.

  1. I'm not sure if the final hand polish on the side did you any favors. At best I think you maintained status quo.
  2. My second observation is that you may not have taken enough off to start. The photos seem to show a round edge still (this may be the angle of the photo, but I think not as the is some waveyness to the edge and a sharp edge would be more crisp)
  3. As to the finish, I suspect the fine finish once mastered and a touch of hand finishing to remove a hanging burr if any will result in razor sharp edges that will last.
If you get any more practice please continue to post photo's.

Cheers,
 

Zrxman01

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I was able to use both.
For the money I liked the Razor Tune.

IMG_3357.JPG
IMG_3368.JPG
 
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TS
Xela

Xela

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Yes, the base is up and the photos show the edge from the side.

I agree that I should have spent more time on the coarse and medium grits. These skis weren't in great shape, which kept them from getting razor-sharp without a lot more material removal. Speaking of which, even the coarse wheel doesn't take that much material off in a single pass, 1/2000". For serious rock damage, I'd guess you'd also want to bring down the base edge as well.

I'm pretty sure the hand polish made things worse, but I had to prove it to myself with photos. In the future, I'll omit this step. Heck, I may even skip the fine wheel entirely.

The price is a bit steep, but I've recently upped the value of my time. I would assume prices could fall if the units fly off the shelves. I doubt the inventor is getting rich just yet.

I'll let people know once I get a handle on abrasive life.

You definitely don't want to gum up the abrasive wheels with molten plastic. Use your sidewall planer. Luckily, the GSR is a cap ski.
 

ScottB

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Side edge. Ski is base up.

I am with Sibhusky about needing some "annotation" on the pics. I can guess the "gold" 45 degree striated portion is the edge. OK, what is the shiney, almost white band at the top? It doesn't look sharp to me? What is all the black crud lower down. Especially weird is the black band, with gold above and below, in the 3rd pic. It looks like you did not plane your side walls and remove the plastic sidewall covering you edge and melted it onto your edge and grinding wheel. Did you not wipe them off before taking the Pic's.. It would be really helpful to have a shot less zoomed out to put things in context.

I work under a microscope sometimes, so I understand zoomed in pic's can be hard to interpret if your not the one staring at the parts.

I want to do a similar "pictorial" documentation of when I hand sharpen. I am convinced that using the diamond stones after the file actually dulls the sharp point of the ski edge. I do understand there is a "hanging burr" that makes it feel sharp, but taking that off with a diamond stone maybe not the best way to remove it and keep the sharp point. I plan to bring a portable microscope home from work and see what kind of shots I can get with it. Your pic's are very interesting to me, as you did essentially what I was thinking of doing. I wonder what less zoom would look like?
 

hbear

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Did it come with a dressing stone? I ordered another grinder and was thinking it might be a good idea to have one?
 

KingGrump

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This is the third photo from the top posted by @Xela.

Razor Tune_2_medium_4372.jpg


The top blue layer is most likely the base bevel beyond the side edge.
The thick gold layer is the side edge.
The black layer below is either the epoxy/polymer layer. The thickness of this layer varies among my skis. On the Stockli SX, it's pretty thick (0.5 mm±). My MX88 has a much thinner layer. Practically a hair line.
The next two gold color layers are the titanal (metal) layers.
The black section on the bottom of the photo is the side wall.

Actually, this is very clear to me. Looks like the side view of lots of skis edges on my skis that have two layers of metal. I see similar configurations every time I tune my skis. Man, I must spend way too much time tuning skis.
Note to self. Pick up a razor tune. Get a life.

@Xela thanks again for the write up and the great photos. Was on the fence between the Swix Evo and the Raxor Tune. Right now, I am leaning toward the RT unit.
 
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Snowfan

aka Eric Nelson
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I agree with KingGrump.

The top "blue" band kind of looks like a slurry of metal bits, perhaps some fluid and detritus laying on the beveled base edge, hiding it. There may even be a hangin' burr in there some where. :)
 

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