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Base Prep - Repeated Full Wax Cycles vs Once Layer Repeatedly Ironed?

squill

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The big tip: if want to increase the molten wax time through multiple ironings you should embrace the fiberlene/shop towel method. That way you have actual fabric carrier loaded full of molten wax wiping your ski up and down with molten wax, and not just the iron's metal plate that is heat cycling and squishing the wax around. If there is any dirt, the fiberlene has a chance to catch it compared to the bare metal and reduce the amount you grind it into your base.
For your final passes, if you are not planning on doing a hotscrape; using fresh fiberlene can also suck up and majority of the excess wax to make your subsequent steps go faster

^^^THIS. Much, much, much less scraping and cleanup and pretty amazing how much dirt can be cleaned out of your base w/o solvents. I did a cycle (3 base prep/3 universal) on a pair last spring before a week long trip (UT/CO/NM) and never had a problem over five days of skiing conditions between fresh snow to early spring slush.
 

Jacques

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When you say to clean the base, are you referring to periodic base cleaning, or even with brand new or newly ground skis?

Also, how does that Swix cleaner compare to JG Base Cleaner? I've got a bottle of that I picked up locally.

Cleaning from time to time and way more in spring conditions. Always new and freshly stone ground.
For me nothing compares to Swix Glide wax Cleaner. Never heard of JG.
 

SlideWright

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How does that compare to their citrus stuff for non-fluorinated waxes and general cleaning? Does it replace it or compliment it?

I see zero need for aggressive and toxic wax removers and base cleaners though all wax companies have there flavors that work fine. Toko and Briko-Maplus have good, aggressive cleaners.

SVST's Agent Orange
is an excellent (and non-toxic) wax remover that can be diluted to a light topical cleaner. It's also very good for adhesive and pitch removal on other many materials, including cars. As with any wax remover/base cleaner, aggressiveness can be used to your advantage by the the quantity you use and the duration it sits on the base. By also uses a stiff nylon brush, you can remove material quickly.

KUU's BioCitron
is a lighter cleaner and great for a topical cleaning as is before waxing. Before waxing, I'll do a quick brass roto brush then wrap a scraper with a lint free shop towel, spray on a little Bio Citron and run it down the ski, flip it and come back on the dry side. You can see the dirt and 'gradoo'. If you think you need more cleaning add, more and do it again. After waiting a few seconds, wipe off. It doesn't eat into the wax too much if you are quick. It evaporates clean. Then you can add wax in a couple minutes.
 
Last edited:

cantunamunch

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Another trick is to use a cleaner-wetted piece of (white) Fibertex.

That trick works so well that herself pinches ~half the box for use with household stains.
 

Dakine

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Wax and bug remover, available from any auto supply, works too if you are cheap and don't want to pay $20 for a pint of partial solvent that cost the supplier about $2.00/gallon.
Put the words "ski wax" on any hydrocarbon or biological and you can charge 10x the cost.
Many will warn you about dire and mystical consequences if you dare let anything but Swix Tomfoolium touch your base.
Just wax after cleaning and spend your money in the bar!
 

Jacques

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How does that compare to their citrus stuff for non-fluorinated waxes and general cleaning? Does it replace it or compliment it?

It's the only cleaner to use. You are talking about removers. I have found the Glide Wax Cleaner to be the best for me in all cases. It won't dry the bases.

Check it for grease removal.
 

Swiss Toni

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If you look at the safety data sheets http://www.swixsport.com/Environment/health-workenvironment/HMS-Datablader/EN you can find the recipe for “Swix Tomfoolium”, as far as I can see the main difference between it and Swix base cleaner is about $15 a tin. Citrus base cleaner is just d-Limonene a by-product of orange juice manufacture, you can buy technical grade d-Limonene for about half the price ski shops sell it at.
 

Dakine

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It's the only cleaner to use. You are talking about removers. I have found the Glide Wax Cleaner to be the best for me in all cases. It won't dry the bases.

Check it for grease removal.
No, I'm talking about cleaners which are partial solvents for the wax ingredients.
Now, if you really want to strip your skis of all wax, like because they are so saturated with fluoros they are slow, use non-chlorinated brake cleaner.
Then plan for several wax cycles before they start to glide well.
 

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